Lajitas, Texas

1 February 1-14, 2014

Maverick Ranch RV Park
Lajitas Spa and Golf Resort

There's only one word to describe most Texas roadways:  endless. You approach a rise expecting to see something on the other side only to find the road continues.  Sometimes that's good and sometimes not so good.  Our 165 mile trip from Ft. Stockton to Lajitas took us through at least five different types of scenery, from desolate to breathtaking (for Ken, anyway...he really likes those desert mountain views; I still prefer some green and perhaps throw in some water). 

 

You can really see the effects of the drought here; we've seen it in most of southern Texas, but it's more prevalent here.  Maverick Ranch is a resort that is showing signs of the economy as well as the weather.  There are underground sprinklers which are banned and the dry, parched ground isn't very pretty.  And, I do have one big question...this is a spa with a six-page brochure of services; yet, no mani-pedi and no haircuts; both of which I put off for my visit to the spa!!! 

(To the right we have Rich and Karen and to our front is Mike and Tina....more info to follow!)

Talking to other campers here...they think the owners are using this place as a write-off for tax purposes.  Can't say I can argue.  There are numerous "subdivisions" with roadways in place and no homes.  But, I am not here to question why....I am here to enjoy!!

Big Bend National Park....another of this country's treasures! 

Day one: We started our journey with a map provided by, and highlighted by, the resort (after asking what kind of car I was driving...should have been my first clue!)  We endured 14 miles on Old Maverick Road of "washboard" roads where my new (yet used) car was rattling with the best of them (or was that only the golf clubs in the back???)  It may look like an improved road; but....tell that to the Acadia!

Anyway, we had 14 miles to go, at 8 mph.....okay the day just became a bit longer than expected.  When we finally stopped because my bladder couldn't handle the morning's coffee, and out of nowhere, we were overcome by a vehicle behind us we never expected to see, asking if we were okay and I replied, "yeah, just enjoying the scenery (which hadn't changed since forever)...why didn't I just say too much coffee???

Well, we enjoyed a long trip to enjoy a stop at Luna Jacal, built of earth, rock and plant, the home of Gilberto Luna,  who lived here until the age of 106 (how did his vehicle??? travel these washboard roads day in and day out??)

We loped along to visit Santa Elana Canyon...the most impressive in Big Bend National Park - it is visible for over 10 miles away, as the Rio Grande changes direction abruptly after following beneath the straight Sierra Ponce cliffs for several miles and heads due west, cutting through the mountains via a deep, narrow gorge.

Our trip then continues through the "village" of Castelon where we found a Visitor Center (closed in the summer---too hot???), which appeared to us as a glorified camp store at any state or national park. We did stop, of course, to pick up my souvenir pin and then continued on to Panther Junction, the park headquarters.  Day one is now done.....or we are done with day one.

The picture doesn't show the whole story, but note the dirt on the back of the car from our travels down Old Maverick Road....I'm surprised the bike rack stayed on the car!!

Second day at Big Ben came a day earlier than expected....wanting to take advantage of those warm, sunny days, we chose a day when, unfortunately, the "border crossings" were closed.  Probably a good thing, 'cause I don't think I could have fit one more thing into the day's activities and even some of those that were planned are being postponed to a later date.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We began, again, at Maverick Junction and traveled across the park, past Panther Junction, and on to Boguillas Canyon.  It was here that Ken decided we should take our first trail hike....easy for him to say!  We, more or less, hiked the trail with a couple we met...fellow South Dakotans, Paul and Kathy.  I say more or less because they, unlike us, were experienced hikers.  We couldn't keep up, but we did complete the hike....we were very proud of ourselves (especially me).

 

 

 

 

The results, as you can see, were well worth my trial!  I can now say, I waved my hands through the waters of the Rio Grande!!!

 

 

We always seemed to have visited desert areas just before or after the seasons of the floral growth...was determined this time I would see what I had been missing...finally, some color! 










Next stop: Chisos Basin, a place that has so much influence on what we are doing today and why! As a young man, Ken had the chance to visit Big Bend as a new recruit in the U.S. Army.  Based in Good Fellow Air Force Base, he and three more buddies took a weekend excursion to Big Bend and stayed at Chisos Basin campground, where Ken met a couple in a truck camper who were full-timers traveling the country.....SOMEDAY, that will be me, Ken said....and, here we are!

 

The next stop was the Chisos Basin Campground for Ken to revisit the campsite from those many years ago and check out the rock he and his friend chose to conquer on that trip to Big Bend. As the story goes, they were climbing up to the left of this rock (much larger than the picture shows), and upon reaching the top realized how the time had flown and how dark is was getting; not to mention the hunger pains that were beginning!  Fastest way down...sliding down through the cactus and dirt; but they made it to the bottom and back to the campsite for hotdogs and picking the cactus burs out of each other's butt!!  (This is a family blog!)

Enjoy some pictures from our second trip to Big Bend:



Our lives have been blessed with some wonderful friends...you know who you are and what you mean to us.  And then, we embark on this new lifestyle and, lo and behold, we meet new and wonderful friends.  We have shared our journey with family, of course, Susan and Bob Bateman and Marilyn and Greg Gundy; but we have enjoyed enduring friendships with Bob and Barb Sanderson, Dick and Suzie Cutter, John and Sheila Green, Marv and Bev Bolland, Jim and Jean Fry, and now Rich and Karen Solle and Mike and Tina.  The list of friends is not long, but these are the ones we have kept in touch with and continue to meet on the road.  These are the friends that fate brought to us....not an address or a job...just the fact that we met at a certain place at a certain time and became friends.  Nothing beats that!!

We enjoyed a night out with Rich and Karen.  Went over to the Thirsty Goat Saloon for pre-dinner drinks....we had to go looking for the bartender; there was no one in the place on this Wednesday night.  About 8:30 we headed over to the restaurant, The Candelilla Café, and again, not a soul to be seen.  Great restaurant (a bit pricey), and they had four guests that night.  How does this place stay in business?  Know we'll stay in touch with Rich and Karen....maybe Tucson???  If not, somewhere in Boston with Oscar!!

And, finally it was warm enough to spend some evenings by the fire.  Mike always had a story or two about his years in Wisconsin!!  We missed out on a few days we could have spent either rafting the Rio Grande or horseback riding in the hills with these two....we'll have to reconnect to fulfill those dreams!

Managed a trip to Terlingua's Ghost Town for a quick walk around the "town" and a stop at the Saturday morning Farmer's Market....I am a bit confused though, as there were no farmers selling their wares; I went specifically for some fresh produce, but should have realized with this drought there is no local fresh produce!  So with $20.00 of homemade bread in my hand we headed back to the resort with a quick stop at the local cemetery, always fun to read the monuments in these places.  After all, what is a trip to a ghost town without a stop at the local cemetery!!

 

 

A beautiful cardinal....a bit different than what we are used to!
 

We set out on a spectacular, warm, sunny day for a 50 mile trek along Route 170 from Lajitas to Presidio through Big Bend Ranch State Park.  The scenery was fabulous, but we now understand why it is not recommended that we take this route in the motorhome to our next destination.  Not a lot of switchbacks, but some very steep grades and sharp curves that would keep any motorhome passenger on the edge of their seat....and anyone following said motorhome in an aggravated state!

First stop on this trek was Contrabando on the banks of the Rio Grande which is an abandoned movie set built in 1985.  Floods destroyed a lot of it but some of the original "buildings" still exist.  Who do we run into but our neighbors, Mike and Tina, from the resort.

Next stop was Closed Canyon enjoying a never before experienced hike into a cavern.  (There was a moment in the cavern when I smelled a skunk....what would you have done?)

 

But, before entering the canyon we met up with another couple....wait a minute, it's Paul and Kathy from Boguillas Canyon!  What a small world....no one else around!

 

 

 

Continuing on, en route to Presidio we passed a trail site and although they weren't in sight, we did find Rich and Karen's truck and just had to leave a little note of hello....

 

Spent a few hours in Presidio....washed the car (for all the good it did us), had some lunch and ventured back the 50 some odd miles to Lajitas!  Beautiful scenery (at least the first 25 miles)!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have to say after experiencing this most remotest part of the U.S. that we have ever visited, I won't be back again....in the time we needed the medical attention or pharmacy and couldn't find it in less than 100 miles, I realize we're too old to enjoy those luxuries anymore.  However, we have gained the friendship we never would have found anywhere else.  We're safe; on our way again yet more fulfilled than the landscape of Big Bend...we are once again truly blessed. 

Hike above our campsite!

Knew Bob Bateman would enjoy this!

 

Our Mesa at sunrise

Sunrise

Rio Grande - Mexico on the left; US on the right

Covered picnic sites - too hot in the summer not to be covered!

Again, the Rio Grande

 

I know this was a long one....but again, come along with me.....what a beautiful country we belong to!  Next stop:  Van Horn, Texas for a couple of overnights and a day trip to Carlsbad Caverns...prepare for some more beautiful pictures!!